Want to be swept away by culture, history, tradition, and unique beauty? Visit Kyoto, Japan, a modern-day wonder with ancient charm. Serving as the imperial capital from 794 to 1868, today it remains one of the most historically important cities of the island nation of the Pacific.
Personal perspective
I’m writing this story from a personal account, as I was fortunate to visit Kyoto, Japan, with my husband, three adult children, and nephew in 2020. Our middle son, proudly serving our country in the U.S. Navy, was then residing in Japan as part of his time aboard the aircraft carrier USS Ronald Reagan (CVN-76). We were fortunate to enjoy family time exploring the area, including visiting Yokosuka, Kyoto, and Tokyo ahead of Covid-19. I will begin by highlighting the start of our trip visiting Tokyo, in the Kanto region of Honshu Island. Though I thoroughly enjoyed the bustling capital city, the quieter Kyoto has a sweet place in my heart due to its historical warmth. Thoughts of returning someday put a smile on my face…
Off to a great start! An adventure in gastronomy
The story began with all six of us together in Tokyo celebrating New Year 2020 in a teeny tiny hotel room while watching boybands perform on television. None of us spoke Japanese so we opted for music on the television to ring in what we hoped would be an exciting year ahead. We took advantage of knowing that Tokyo is a foodie’s paradise, and we tried all kinds of culinary delights to include ramen, sushi, yakitori, teppanyaki, sushi go-round restaurants, and more. We cooked hot pot, grilled food at the table, and even ordered meals from a vending machine – which was surprisingly good. We ate at many types of establishments, from fancy restaurants to a home cooked meal in someone’s home. Funny story, at one establishment, due to language barrier, I accidentally ordered two very expensive Wagyu steaks for myself – best mistake of my life!
In Tokyo
We did many of the must-see “touristy things” in the vibrant city such as visiting the iconic Tokyo Tower, taking photographs of plum blossoms in their resting phase at Shiba Park, navigating the pedestrian scramble across the famed Shibuya Crossing, visiting lively Akihabara with its flashing lights, taking in the quiet beauty of temples and shrines in Asakusa, and even watching the Emperor of Japan give an address at the Imperial Palace! We spent one night performing karaoke poorly, played dance video games at the arcade, hit a digital art museum, saw Tokyo Skytree, and walked through Shinjuku (affectionately known as the Vegas of Japan). We trekked through parks rich in covered bridges, dined atop sky rises, and found respite on some quiet city streets. These experiences showcase Japan’s ability to embrace modernity amidst history.
On to Kyoto!
We took a speedy bullet train ride (the Shinkansen) from the Shin-Yokohama station to Kyoto and enjoyed breathtaking views of Mt. Fuji, a dramatic volcanic-cone shaped mountain whose top was mysteriously concealed behind powder-white clouds. It looked so beautiful that as I looked out the train window, I pinched myself to make sure the moment was real. Little did I know that more visual treasures would await us in Kyoto.
Rich experiences ensue
Situated in West-Central Honshu, Kyoto is noted for its rich cultural heritage. It is here that tradition is deeply embraced, with tea rooms and kimono-wearing geishas, and untold numbers of Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, serene bamboo forests, and inviting gardens awaiting calm exploration. Our hotel, complete with a welcoming robot in the entryway, was situated in the heart of Kyoto near the Yasaka and Heian Shrines. We began with a ride to the bamboo forest, easy to access via train, and then walked about 15 minutes to our destination. The train system in Japan renders travel easy. Pretty quickly, we learned the etiquette; do not stare, do not talk on the phone, and do not converse loudly to maintain consideration of others.
- Arashiyama Bamboo Forest – This magical bamboo grove features a dramatic path through towering bamboo stalks. Walking through the lush and dense forest provided a truly unique feeling that many people liken to an “out-of-body experience” or being in a dream. In addition to its beauty, I was moved by the soft rustling sound of the wind moving through the stalks. I witnessed a bride and groom being photographed afront the evergreen perennials, a beautiful sight to behold. Lucky for us, visiting off season in January, the forest was uncrowded with tourists. Instead, local women dressed in kimonos, the traditional Japanese garment and the national dress of Japan, were observed. Bamboo is a symbol of strength, resilience, and flexibility in the Japanese culture. Thus, the Japanese greatly embrace the sacredness of bamboo forests. Here, they practice Shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) to immerse themselves in nature to improve health and wellbeing. A visit here must be made with the upmost respect for the land and for the people seeking spiritual and physical renewal.
- Nijo Castle (Nijo-jo) – Built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of the first shogun of the Edo Period, Tokugawa Ieyasu, this amazing castle would become an imperial palace after the fall of Tokugawa Shogunate in 1867. In 1939, the castle was donated to the city and opened to the public. Since 1994, it was designated a UNESCO world heritage site. Nijo Castle features elaborate structures with ornate palace rooms. The main buildings of Nijo Castle, known as Ninomaru Palace, are constructed of Japanese Cypress. Visitors can stroll the wide halls to observe golden screen paintings and intricate woodwork. A visit here provides a first-hand glimpse into its feudal history, showcasing the wealth and power of the shogunate. Inside the Ninomaru Palace, constructed in 1626 for an imperial visit by the Emperor Go-Mizunoo, are the famous Nightingale floors. The wooden planks are uniquely assembled and make a chirping sound when walked upon. Though likely the result of design, according to myth, this was to alert residents of intruders. People who wish to experience the essence of Kyoto should not miss seeing this historic gem.
- Nishiki Market – This historic 390-meter general food market offers over 400 years of retail history. The narrow five-block-long and stall-studded shopping strip features over one hundred vendors with specialized foods and products of the region such as Japanese sweet pickled products, dried seafood, and sushi. It is a lively and culturally rich place to stroll in and out of shops, perhaps buying high-quality cooking utensils or cookware, or above all, tasting a variety of traditional Japanese culinary delights. In my experience, the vendors are hard working people with warm and welcoming spirits, treating tourists well. However, note that it is considered impolite to walk and eat. Throughout the market, small restaurants offered places to sit and enjoy a meal with a beverage. Japan-guide.com references the establishment’s humble beginnings ahead of becoming the vibrant market it is today. “It all started as a fish wholesale district, with the first shop opening around 1310. A larger variety of shops moved in later, and the area changed from a wholesale market to retail.” Its longstanding history underscores the importance of the establishment to the locals of Kyoto.
A lasting memory
That trip to Japan remains our most memorable family trip. Ahead of the Covid-19 pandemic, it caused me to gain pure appreciation for the free spirit of travel. From our delightful arrival in Tokyo to our heartwarming visit to Kyoto – plus capturing views of the massive USS Ronald Reagan aircraft carrier in between – our vacation is fondly remembered. I’d be remiss in failing to mention a highlight of the trip. We’d taken an evening train ride in the Yokosuka area to visit the home where our son was living. To get there required a long climb on foot up a steep winding hill. Our Navy son and our nephew, (both in great shape) observed an elderly lady up ahead struggling to make it up the hill. She was carrying a heavy brown bag filled with groceries and had stopped numerous times to catch her breath. We caught up with her and the young men instantaneously acted. Our son, speaking limited Japanese, offered help. The frail woman delightfully nodded in acceptance. My son swooped up her bag as my nephew extended his arm for support. Together, the trio slowly walked just ahead of us, the silhouettes of two strong young men with a frail elderly woman walking between them outlined by the fading sun. That image, wrapped in my travel memories, is a tender moment I will never forget.